The opening of the bicycle season begins in April or May. In the southern regions of our country – earlier, in the northern regions – later. With comfortable temperatures and plenty of free time during these months it is possible to ride the first 1000 km.
Opening of the biking season
Experienced cyclists advise to start the season as soon as the day temperature is over +10°C. Even at +3…+10°C you can already start cycling.
How to prepare yourself and your body for the cycling season
Both athletes and amateurs should prepare for the cycling season in advance.
The body is not ready for physical exertion after a long break, and getting on a bike without preparation is irrational.
Physical fitness
After a break in riding, the fitness of any cyclist decreases, so on the first rides it is recommended not to go long distances. Depending on your age, it is advisable to ride no more than 10-20 km.
Trying to start long rides at once can lead to an increased load on the knees and their injuries. Increase the daily distance is better to gradually according to a specially designed scheme:
- 10 km;
- 20 km;
- 30 km;
- 50 km;
- 70 km;
- 100 km;
- 150 km;
- 200 km.
Cycling uniforms
If the temperature outside is low, the first to freeze will be hands and feet. It is recommended to choose sneakers with warm socks as cycling shoes.
The uniform should include hand gloves, a scarf, and a helmet with a helmet liner.
In the evenings the air temperature drops, and with the onset of darkness it can get dramatically cold. So dress in layers: the more layers, the easier it is to regulate the temperature. Take something warm to spare for the evening.
How to get your bike ready for the bike season
A new or well-maintained bike doesn’t require preparation. It is enough to wipe and lubricate the chain, pump up the tires. An older bike that has not been cared for for a long time needs more attention.
Frame
This assembly should be inspected and make sure there are no cracks or deformations. A warped frame can fall apart on the fly. Repair it only in a specialized workshop. As a last resort, you may be able to weld the steel structure at home if you have the necessary equipment.
Wheel and hub mounting
When checking the wheels, it is necessary to monitor:
- whether they are securely fastened in their seats;
- whether the fastening nuts are tightened sufficiently;
- any creaks, knocking noises, backlash (rolling sideways) must be eliminated;
- Unusual noises from the pedal bushing.
If there are any problems, cleaning, adjusting and changing the grease in the hubs is necessary, and in some cases, reinstalling the bearings.
Rims
Wheel rims should not deviate from the vertical path when turning. When the wheel is moving quickly, you can see its ellipsoidal shape, as well as longitudinal bends – figure of eight.
Wheel deformities are corrected by tightening the appropriate spokes. In complicated cases, a new rim or a complete wheel and tube and tire should be fitted.
Spokes
All spokes should make the same sound when they are tightened slightly and released suddenly. A muffled ringing sound means a spoke needs tightening. A ringing sound means it needs to be loosened.
Condition of tires and tubes
Bicycle tires are dusted and inspected for damage and cracks. A large number of micro-cracks on a tire signals that it should be replaced.
Hernias, swellings and tears in the tread or sidewall of the tire are also unacceptable.
Tire pressure
The pressure range recommended by the manufacturer is indicated on the sidewall of each bicycle tire. Use a car or bicycle pump with a pressure gauge to inflate the tires to this level. If you do not have a pressure gauge, inflate to the point where the tires deflect no more than 1 cm under the cyclist’s weight. While inflating the wheels, the condition of the nipples is assessed.
Brake and shifter cables
The drive cables for the brakes and shifters must be tightened so that there is no slack in them, and so that the mechanisms they actuate work smoothly. Worn or torn cables should be replaced. In addition, they should be cleaned of oxides and rust, and treated with liquid grease.
Brakes
When the brakelevers are depressed, they must not touch the steering wheel. When they are released they effortlessly return to their original position. Their operation should not be too soft or too tight. If the brakes are adjusted correctly, the bicycle will stop when the lever is pulled halfway down. If the brakes do not meet these standards, they must be adjusted.
The brake pads must be free of deformations, cracks and dents. There are grooves on the inside of these parts. If they are worn out, then the pad is worn out and must be replaced.
The gap between the brake pad and the wheel rim should be 1-3 mm. Adjust if necessary.
Speed shifters
Check the operation of the shifting mechanism with the rear wheel unloaded. When checking, pay attention to how clearly each speed is engaged from the bottom sprocket to the top sprocket and vice versa on both the front and rear derailleurs. Adjust the shifting mechanism if necessary.
Chain
Check the chain for wear. A severely worn actuator puts more stress on the sprockets, causing them to wear out much faster. Statistically, the chain lasts about 4,000 km, after which it begins to sag and ruin the sprockets.
A repaired bike chain must be washed with WD-40 or gasoline, thoroughly dried and coated with silicone grease.
Handlebar Assembly
The handlebar should be held firmly in its hub and should not move from side to side while riding. The handlebar and bushing should be free of cracks or other damage and the bolts should be tightened.
Crank Assemblies
The crank rods are subject to play. To check, jiggle them in all directions with your hand. Slight play is not dangerous and can be corrected with a wrench. A large amount of play indicates that the bearings in the pedal hub are worn and must be replaced as soon as possible.
If the teeth on the front and rear sprockets are worn, it is best to replace them with new ones. Otherwise the chain will come off. Make sure the front sprocket mounting bolt is tightened securely on the right connecting rod.
Seat
The saddle should be high enough so that you can reach only the toe of your foot when the pedal is lowered. Adjust the comfort position of the seat longitudinally and its inclination.
Bolts and clips
Also check that all the fasteners on your bike, such as bolts, nuts, screws, eccentric pins and clamps, are tight. Tighten them firmly but carefully so that the threads are not torn. Check that the threads are not stuck as you tighten them.